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Big Brass - Tuning & Balance

author: Peter Kaiser

I know, I know -- I've sort of ignored brass players in my articles so far. Well, this article is written for those of you ladies and gents that prefer valves and slides to keys and reeds. As everyone in marching bands knows, the brasses are the base of the band's sound. And though the brass choir is also usually about half the band, it produces about 70% of the band's volume on field. The brasses also contribute a noble, full tone to the band. Because of all this, the brass section that learns to use its acoustic powers properly will do very well indeed. This article will discuss tuning as well as balance and blend.

The most important thing you can do as a band member is listen (this is easier to do if you're already familiar with your music). Listen to your sound, how your part fits with the whole of the piece, how your tone color fits in with the rest of the band, how your rhythms work with and against other sections... as a brass player, you must also listen more particularly to the brass choir within the band. While I don't have as many helpful tips for embouchure and tone production as I do for the woodwinds, a very important thing to keep in mind is that the brass sound will carry over the band, so your main focus (aside from the obvious "playing the right notes and rhythms at the right time") should be the kind of tone you're going to put out.

A band with good intonation and good in-tune-with-itselfness sounds bigger and bolder than a band whose tuning is off somewhat. Because of this, having your instrument as in-tune with itself as possible will make it easier for you to be more in tune with the rest of the band. So, a general comment about tuning brasses: every so often (maybe every week or two), spend some time with a tuner. Tune your usual open note after you've warmed up a bit (C for trumpets and 'tone TC's, Bb for 'tone BC's, 'bones, tubas, etc.), but then go a few steps further. After your open note is tuned, tune the half-step below (2nd valve) as closely as possible. Then, follow these steps (depending on which instrument you play):

Tpt / Cornet:
Tune your Bb (1st valve) as closely as possible if you have a thumb saddle. If you don't have a thumb saddle, tune your Bb slightly flat (but no more than 5 cents). Play your A (12), and, if you have a thumb saddle, see how much you have to pull the slide out to make the A play in tune. Tune your Ab (23) and adjust the third slide to make it as in-tune as possible. If you have a finger ring on your 3rd slide, you could adjust the "starting position" that the 3rd slide stays in when you're not using it. Play low G (13, *not* open G) and find out how much you need to move the third slide to fix the tuning. Repeat on F# (123).

*If you don't have a finger ring on your 3rd slide, you'll have to compromise on the longer fingerings. Use your own judgment, depending on which fingerings you use most (23, 13, 123). **Additional note for trumpet and cornet players: if you have a thumb saddle and finger ring on your trumpet but don't use it, USE IT!!! The more you become accustomed to yourself playing in tune, the more accurate your intonation will be. This can be an enormous help when concert season rolls around, too.

Mellophone:
Tune your Bb [F if an F mello](1st valve and slide) as closely as possible. If you don't have a thumb saddle, tune slightly flat (but no more than 5 cents). Play your A [E if an F mello](12), and, if you have a thumb saddle, see how much you have to pull the slide out to make the A play in tune. Tune your Ab [Eb if an F mello](23) and adjust the 3rd slide to make it somewhat flat (about 10 cents is the limit here). Play low G [D if an F mello](13, *not* open ) and see where it sits on the tuner. You'll have to compromise on the longer fingerings. Use your own judgment, depending on which fingerings you use most (23, 13, 123).

Bar. / Tuba:
Tune your Ab [Bb if Bar. TC](1st valve and slide) slightly flat (but no more than 5 cents). Most marching baritones have a thumb saddle for the 1st slide; if you have one of these, tune your Ab [Bb if TC] as closely as possible. Play your G [A if Bar. TC](12) and see where it sits on the tuner. It may be a little sharp; this is a compromise you must make to get your overall tuning as close as possible. (you can, of course, lip it down a little, but that's harder to do when you're marching around the field). Tune your F# [Ab if Bar. TC](23) and adjust the 3rd slide to make it somewhat flat (about 10 cents is the limit here). Play low F [G if Bar. TC](13, *not* open) and see where it sits on the tuner. You'll have to compromise on the longer fingerings. Use your own judgment, depending on which fingerings you use most.

*If you march with a 4-valve convertible tuba, you're both lucky (better intonation possibilities as well as more pedal notes available) and unlucky (it's somewhat heavier). If you have a 4th valve, tune your F# (23) as closely as possible, and instead of tuning F with 13, tune F with 4th valve. Tune this just right, and try longer fingerings (24, 124, 234) and see where they sit on the tuner. If you use these fingerings a lot, you may want to compromise between these longer fingerings and the fingerings that don't involve the 4th valve. Use your own judgment here.

*Trombones, of course, only tune their 1st position note and their F attachment if they have a trigger, since all the other tuning is controlled on the fly.

As an additional comment, it should go without saying that having quality instruments in good repair is essential. While brasses have simpler mechanisms than woodwinds, they somehow tend to dent more easily. Dents closer to the bell are, for the most part, simply ugly; dents (even small ones) in the valvework, on the leadpipe, etc., are detrimental not only to the instrument's sound but to the player's satisfaction as well -- band should be fun. Having an instrument that doesn't work, or that is out of adjustment, doesn't contribute to the enjoyment of band -- and can be quite frustrating as well.

I hope you find the tips and suggestions in this article helpful, and I'd appreciate any feedback you'd like to give. Good luck!


Peter Kaiser is a Music Education major (Saxophone) at Indiana University and has become somewhat of a regular columnist for our site. We appreciate his willingness to contribute and share his experience with our followers.

If you're interested in contributing an article for the site, please let us know by dropping us an email at info@simplyinstrumental.com. We'd love to hear from you!


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